Average number of days: 9; Highest point: 5,122m
North of the Kathmandu valley lie the valleys of Helambu and Langtang. The region is a great place to explore glaciers, lakes, alpine pastures and temperate forests along with experiencing Tarnang and Sherpa life. You can stay in highland monastery villages or trek through pristine forests to the village of Choda Tabela where the valley opens out into a high, Himalayan river plain dotted with stunning camping sites. The secluded valley also cradles the Langtang National Park which is home to the rare red panda that lives in the lichen-draped rhododendron thickets here. You can visit the Cosaikunda Lake that doubles as a pilgrimage for the staunch followers of Shiva, or any of the other lakes here such as the Nagkunda, Bhairavkunda, Saraswatikunda and Suryakunda. While you can choose to climb a ridge on Yala Peak from Kyanjin Compa, you definitely shouldn't drop the hike to the foot of the Langshisa glacier for an incredible view of glaciers, ice falls and snowfields surrounded on all sides by high mountains. Though this gorgeous trek is so close to Kathmandu, it is not as populated by trekkers as much as the Everest Base Camp trail or the ABC circuit, and that pretty much works for it.
The least-known ancient kingdoms of Nepal and is the legendary El Dorado of trekkers. Fascinating and alluring, the mystique of Mustang is glamorous more due to its history and culture than because of its landscape. Despite politically being a part of Nepal, Mustang is known as 'The Tibet outside Tibet', for it survived the Chinese invasion in 1951 and fosters original Tibetan culture till date. Because of its strategic location that makes it the easiest corridor between the Tibetan plateau and Central Asia, it braved several wars and yet emerged a survivor. Though not very strenuous, trekking in Mustang requires special permits and a daily fine for any days that you exceed in the 'hidden kingdom'. Mustang's barren moonscape of eroded sandstone pillars and discontinuous moraine terraces together present a colourful mosaic and the region also provides spectacular views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. The trek starts from Jomsom to where you can either fly or trek from Pokhara, though it's advisable to fly and save your energy for the subsequent Mustang trek.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP
Average number of days: 20; Sanctuary: 15; Highest point: 5,416m
Perhaps the most popular of all Himalayan base camps, the Annapurna Base Camp trek that's commonly referred to as the ABC is one of the most diverse treks in terms of landscape. This is also the reason why most trekkers are drawn to it. The trek takes you through some of the world's highest passes, terraced fields, forests, snowfields and alpine pastures. The trek begins at Pokhara and goes north-west around the Annapurna. Over a course of six to seven days through dramatic changes of climate, landscape and culture, you reach Jomsom where you have the option of flying back to Pokhara. A lot of Indian pilgrims intoxicated by devout fervour carry on to the shrine of Muktinath while other trekkers powered by the spirit of adventure move past Jomsom to the valley of Manang, hit the Kathmandu-Pokhara highway and complete the circuit where they started. Some people also opt to trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary in the same region that leads you to the base camp through some of Nepal's most beautiful rhododendron forests. Apart from the diversity of the ABC, the trademark hospitality of the tea houses is what a lot of trekkers love. Many spend additional days in small villages en route, soaking in the cultural warmth and enjoying conversations over a simple meal of dal bhat.
Perhaps the most popular of all Himalayan base camps, the Annapurna Base Camp trek that's commonly referred to as the ABC is one of the most diverse treks in terms of landscape. This is also the reason why most trekkers are drawn to it. The trek takes you through some of the world's highest passes, terraced fields, forests, snowfields and alpine pastures. The trek begins at Pokhara and goes north-west around the Annapurna. Over a course of six to seven days through dramatic changes of climate, landscape and culture, you reach Jomsom where you have the option of flying back to Pokhara. A lot of Indian pilgrims intoxicated by devout fervour carry on to the shrine of Muktinath while other trekkers powered by the spirit of adventure move past Jomsom to the valley of Manang, hit the Kathmandu-Pokhara highway and complete the circuit where they started. Some people also opt to trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary in the same region that leads you to the base camp through some of Nepal's most beautiful rhododendron forests. Apart from the diversity of the ABC, the trademark hospitality of the tea houses is what a lot of trekkers love. Many spend additional days in small villages en route, soaking in the cultural warmth and enjoying conversations over a simple meal of dal bhat.
Monday, December 20, 2010
KANCHENJUNGA BASE CAMP
Come to Kanchenjunga Base Camp only if you are an avid trekker - you will meet the challenges you crave for.
Average number of days: 20; Highest point: 5,100m
One of the most challenging, the Kanchenjunga is best trekked by those with a strong will and stronger trekking experience. Most people who trek to this base camp are ardent admirers of the mountain itself that is deemed to be one of the most difficult peaks to scale across the world and has claimed the lives of many ambitious alpinists. This rather uninhabited region lies on the far eastern border of Nepal and lacks the comfort of tea houses and most facilities that you can avail of on other treks. For this reason, this trek is attempted by few since the burden of food supplies and camping equipment can be draining, not to mention expensive. The valleys approaching the mountain base camp have been opened to trekking, specifically for organized treks. The long trek to the lap of Kanchenjunga takes trekkers through some of the richest forests and most isolated patches, and holds the promise of an unparalleled adventure.
Average number of days: 20; Highest point: 5,100m
One of the most challenging, the Kanchenjunga is best trekked by those with a strong will and stronger trekking experience. Most people who trek to this base camp are ardent admirers of the mountain itself that is deemed to be one of the most difficult peaks to scale across the world and has claimed the lives of many ambitious alpinists. This rather uninhabited region lies on the far eastern border of Nepal and lacks the comfort of tea houses and most facilities that you can avail of on other treks. For this reason, this trek is attempted by few since the burden of food supplies and camping equipment can be draining, not to mention expensive. The valleys approaching the mountain base camp have been opened to trekking, specifically for organized treks. The long trek to the lap of Kanchenjunga takes trekkers through some of the richest forests and most isolated patches, and holds the promise of an unparalleled adventure.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
THE EVEREST BASE CAMP
Average number of days: 12; via Gokyo: 20; Highest point: 5,545m
The most widely-recognized of all, the biggest draw this trail has is perhaps the names associated with it. Needless to say, the highest mountain in the world commands a mammoth following by the sheer force of its fame. The path that was once treaded by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, and subsequently by the most celebrated mountaineers is now retraced by thousands of trekkers whose trek ends where the real quest for alpinists begins. The popular way to do it involves flying to Lukla, the world's highest airstrip, then walking to the first village, Phakding, right up to the last stop Gorak Shep over a course of approximately nine days. This journey uphill has many interesting stops en route and the small detours are worth the extra time devoted. The route is dotted with small tea houses, home to the sherpas, who welcome you into their hearth and hearts with equal ease. Stop at Namche, the capital of the Solukhumbu region where everyone halts to acclimatise themselves on their way up, and chill out on their way down. Do a day's trek to Khumjung and back as it's simply spectacular, just as much as the walk up to the Ama Dablam glacier lake from Dingboche. From Gorak Shep, you can also walk up to Kala Patthar, which is as much an attraction as the Everest Base Camp itself.
While some follow this trail from Lukla, the more determined (or stringent budget-holders) skip the flight and walk to Lukla from Jiri. It's not as picturesque and adds another week, so most people skip that leg. For the ones who do it, it's only a matter of more sunburns, resilience and greater pride. Another fantastic trail to take to the Everest Base Camp is the Gokyo trail. It's longer and more tedious, but that is compensated for by the stunning lakes and scenery that's sure to enthral you. Whatever the route, you're in for a visual treat. Be it a riot of colourful wild flowers or colossal white peaks, there's nothing here you won't get floored by.
The most widely-recognized of all, the biggest draw this trail has is perhaps the names associated with it. Needless to say, the highest mountain in the world commands a mammoth following by the sheer force of its fame. The path that was once treaded by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, and subsequently by the most celebrated mountaineers is now retraced by thousands of trekkers whose trek ends where the real quest for alpinists begins. The popular way to do it involves flying to Lukla, the world's highest airstrip, then walking to the first village, Phakding, right up to the last stop Gorak Shep over a course of approximately nine days. This journey uphill has many interesting stops en route and the small detours are worth the extra time devoted. The route is dotted with small tea houses, home to the sherpas, who welcome you into their hearth and hearts with equal ease. Stop at Namche, the capital of the Solukhumbu region where everyone halts to acclimatise themselves on their way up, and chill out on their way down. Do a day's trek to Khumjung and back as it's simply spectacular, just as much as the walk up to the Ama Dablam glacier lake from Dingboche. From Gorak Shep, you can also walk up to Kala Patthar, which is as much an attraction as the Everest Base Camp itself.
While some follow this trail from Lukla, the more determined (or stringent budget-holders) skip the flight and walk to Lukla from Jiri. It's not as picturesque and adds another week, so most people skip that leg. For the ones who do it, it's only a matter of more sunburns, resilience and greater pride. Another fantastic trail to take to the Everest Base Camp is the Gokyo trail. It's longer and more tedious, but that is compensated for by the stunning lakes and scenery that's sure to enthral you. Whatever the route, you're in for a visual treat. Be it a riot of colourful wild flowers or colossal white peaks, there's nothing here you won't get floored by.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
SAVE HIMALAYAS - BE A GREEN HIKER
Few experiences in the world can match the ecstasy of sitting in a lime green meadow in the highest alpine mountains with wildflowers and ponies tor company. Stretching over 2,400 km along the Indian subcontinent, home to over 100 peaks higher than 20,000 ft and boasting 15,000 glaciers, the Himalayas offer much more than a series of geographical superlatives. Think natural beauty in liberal doses, think mysterious forests, think landscapes that vary every 10 km, think about the humbling scale of the peaks, think vast, high-altitude deserts, think unique wildlife and tremendous rivers, and you might begin to understand why man gravitates towards these enormous giants.
But as Alex Lowe, the celebrated mountaineer, once said, 'There are two kinds of climbers, those who climb because their heart sings when they're in the mountains, and all the rest." Today, the Indian Himalayas endure, on an average, an influx of 1,28,70,928 enthusiastic tourists every year, which is almost one-third of their entire human population. In this modern age, riding a bike to Leh is considered a rite of passage, and the biggest high that the self-proclaimed Marco Polos of the year 2010 can concoct is driving a 4WD into the north-eastern Himalayas and setting up a blog upon return, peppered with ample pictures of remote valleys. But this is the nemesis of our generation, and it is this very remoteness that stands endangered. Despite enough public messages and easy access to information, glacial meltdown is threatening eco stability. For example, the glacier that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay camped on for their first ascent of Mt Everest, has retreated five kilometres upslope and melting rates worldwide have doubled since the 1980s remains only another newspaper report to most, intrepid travelers included.
Save Himalayas - Be a Green Hiker
Based on this information, small changes in tour routes, how often they are used, the duration of activities or the key natural sites visited could help prevent irreversible damage and allow natural areas to regenerate.
Use established tracks and sites wherever possible when choosing routes and campsites. Avoid clearing new areas or tracks to help minimize erosion, habitat-clearing and trampling on vegetation. Where there are a few key routes and sites, rotate the ones used to allow areas to recover without putting too much pressure
on anyone area. This can be particularly important where there are no sealed or graveled tracks or boardwalks. When choosing routes and campsites, avoid highly sensitive sites such as breeding grounds (which may be seasonal) and areas where vulnerable or sensitive species exist. Avoid camping within a distance of 30m from water bodies and 100m from cave entrances. Clean all equipment and footwear before entering mountain areas to avoid chemicals entering waterways and exotic seeds and diseases entering the local ecosystems. Avoid open fires to reduce accidental fires and scarring of the landscape in dry areas. In snow-covered areas, this can also help protect sensitive vegetation beneath the snow. Remove all artificial structures after use. In snow-covered areas in particular, it is important to remove kitchens, shelters and other constructions after use as they are visually unattractive and create artificial wind and water breaks. Avoid over-packaged goods and disposable items. Purchase in bulk and use recyclable and refillable containers where possible. Keep waste and chemicals away from natural water bodies. Avoid the use of cleaning products, soaps, detergents and toothpaste near or in fresh water. Be careful with the disposal of human waste. If toilets are unavailable, bury human waste at least 15 cm deep and 100m from water sources or campsites. Use permanent toilets or portable chemical toilets where possible.
But consider the impact of off-track driving as opposed to routes that stick to metaled roads, think about the noise pollution generated due to any festival, not to forget the waste left behind, and you are getting closer to the issue. In higher altitudes, tourist season coincides with peak wildlife activity, which affects the fragile ecosystem in more ways than one. Tourists clean out sparse mountain vegetation for campfires, leaving very little food For wild herbivores, and disturbances to animals such as the wild ass, often chased by jeep safaris, isn't unheard of either. Breeding grounds of the waterfowl and black-necked cranes are under serious threat as well.
Almost all of the Himalayas are in danger, and if we don't wake up to the looming reality, our future generations will be unable to enjoy world's most fantastic natural heritage. Hillary summed up the reality of our situation in these words: "Cod has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand tempests and floods. But he cannot save them from fools' Mountains are worth saving, and you can help do it."
But as Alex Lowe, the celebrated mountaineer, once said, 'There are two kinds of climbers, those who climb because their heart sings when they're in the mountains, and all the rest." Today, the Indian Himalayas endure, on an average, an influx of 1,28,70,928 enthusiastic tourists every year, which is almost one-third of their entire human population. In this modern age, riding a bike to Leh is considered a rite of passage, and the biggest high that the self-proclaimed Marco Polos of the year 2010 can concoct is driving a 4WD into the north-eastern Himalayas and setting up a blog upon return, peppered with ample pictures of remote valleys. But this is the nemesis of our generation, and it is this very remoteness that stands endangered. Despite enough public messages and easy access to information, glacial meltdown is threatening eco stability. For example, the glacier that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay camped on for their first ascent of Mt Everest, has retreated five kilometres upslope and melting rates worldwide have doubled since the 1980s remains only another newspaper report to most, intrepid travelers included.
Save Himalayas - Be a Green Hiker
- Get local guides wherever possible so that the economic benefits remain in the region.
- Purchase locally grown food and beverages wherever possible.
- Support community based initiatives like home stays.
- Be considerate when using shared infrastructure and services.
- Minimize pollution from phones, radios, loud conversations, sudden movements, flash photography, bright colored clothing and open fires
- Avoid night-time wildlife sightseeing tours unless required for conservation projects
- Avoid feeding wildlife.
- Learn more about sensitive sites and species in the local area by talking to local area managers, conservation groups, researchers or other professionals.
Based on this information, small changes in tour routes, how often they are used, the duration of activities or the key natural sites visited could help prevent irreversible damage and allow natural areas to regenerate.
Use established tracks and sites wherever possible when choosing routes and campsites. Avoid clearing new areas or tracks to help minimize erosion, habitat-clearing and trampling on vegetation. Where there are a few key routes and sites, rotate the ones used to allow areas to recover without putting too much pressure
on anyone area. This can be particularly important where there are no sealed or graveled tracks or boardwalks. When choosing routes and campsites, avoid highly sensitive sites such as breeding grounds (which may be seasonal) and areas where vulnerable or sensitive species exist. Avoid camping within a distance of 30m from water bodies and 100m from cave entrances. Clean all equipment and footwear before entering mountain areas to avoid chemicals entering waterways and exotic seeds and diseases entering the local ecosystems. Avoid open fires to reduce accidental fires and scarring of the landscape in dry areas. In snow-covered areas, this can also help protect sensitive vegetation beneath the snow. Remove all artificial structures after use. In snow-covered areas in particular, it is important to remove kitchens, shelters and other constructions after use as they are visually unattractive and create artificial wind and water breaks. Avoid over-packaged goods and disposable items. Purchase in bulk and use recyclable and refillable containers where possible. Keep waste and chemicals away from natural water bodies. Avoid the use of cleaning products, soaps, detergents and toothpaste near or in fresh water. Be careful with the disposal of human waste. If toilets are unavailable, bury human waste at least 15 cm deep and 100m from water sources or campsites. Use permanent toilets or portable chemical toilets where possible.
But consider the impact of off-track driving as opposed to routes that stick to metaled roads, think about the noise pollution generated due to any festival, not to forget the waste left behind, and you are getting closer to the issue. In higher altitudes, tourist season coincides with peak wildlife activity, which affects the fragile ecosystem in more ways than one. Tourists clean out sparse mountain vegetation for campfires, leaving very little food For wild herbivores, and disturbances to animals such as the wild ass, often chased by jeep safaris, isn't unheard of either. Breeding grounds of the waterfowl and black-necked cranes are under serious threat as well.
Almost all of the Himalayas are in danger, and if we don't wake up to the looming reality, our future generations will be unable to enjoy world's most fantastic natural heritage. Hillary summed up the reality of our situation in these words: "Cod has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand tempests and floods. But he cannot save them from fools' Mountains are worth saving, and you can help do it."
DRIVING RULES IN THE HIMALAYAS
Here are a few pointers to guide you towards a better drive in the mountains.
- First and foremost, be nice.
- Keep to the left, especially around corners
- Move out to overtake only when you have a clear line of sight
- Never stop too close to the vehicle ahead - if it rolls back while trying to start off your car could be damaged. Be courteous and patient - not everybody may have the torque and power you have so show them some consideration
- Right of way- on narrow roads there may be times when you'll need to wait for an oncoming vehicle to pass. Or you might need to back up to a wider area. It is courteous to give right of way to the driver with the more cumbersome vehicle.
- Breakdowns-if you can, do try to help fellow motorists who have broken down on lonely hill roads. I have helped people and have always been helped in similar situations. I call it motoring karma.
- Horn Not Ok Please-Go easy on the horn, but do toot it when you are going around corners or blind bends
Thursday, August 19, 2010
HEALTH AND SAFETY DURING YOUR SUMMER DRIVE
- If you or your passengers start feeling the altitude severely then descend to a lower altitude immediately. On no account should you climb higher or spend the night at that altitude. Remember that mild symptoms like headache and nausea are quite normal.
- Buckle up - always wear your seatbelt and insist that all passengers wear them too.
- Fuel and punctures - start looking for a petrol pump after your car's gauge goes below half. Also if you do get a puncture, have it repaired at the first opportunity.
- Rest - if you're tired, rest. Dozing off at the wheel on a hill road is almost always fatal.
- Edges - some mountain roads have crumbly edges. Do stay away from them Rockfall and landslides-at potential landslide areas do not stop or linger. Go through as soon as possible.
- Water crossings - do not rush through streams that you might have to cross. There might be hidden rocks that could damage the underbelly of your car. Gauge the depth and the path by observing the car ahead and then drive across slowly.
- Motion sickness and high-altitude sickness - remember to take motion-sickness pills half an hour before starting off. They are no good once the sickness has come on. Remember that they do bring on drowsiness.
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